Surfer Marco Mignot took a few moments out of his adventurous lifestyle to answer 8 quick questions from Close-up Culture.
Q: There are videos online of you surfing at 12 years old. When did you first get on a board and why did you love it at such a young age?
A: Well my first time surfing was at around six years old, but I always loved the ocean since I was two months old. Maybe I fell in love with it because it brings peace to my mind. If I ever have a problem, I seek out the ocean.
Q: Your brother Nomme also surfs. Can you tell us about your relationship with Nomme and your shared love for surfing?
A: Nomme is everything to me. He showed me the good things in life and he got me ready to deal with anything. We have a great relationship and he inspires me every day to be a better person.
Q: I saw you were recently in Israel. How was the trip?
A: My trip to Israel was amazing. I have never felt so much energy in one place, the people I met there were just so positive and lovely. Yeah, I love Israel!
Q: This lifestyle allows you to travel a lot. Is there anywhere you are dying to visit or revisit?
A: I am dying to see this one island. It’s a secret island, but I hear it has perfect waves.
Q: I imagine you have to be fairly free spirited and adventurous to be a surfer. What do you love about the surfing life and why do you feel you are suited to it?
A: I love that this lifestyle is simple and you’re surrounded by nature all the time. I couldn’t be more blessed.
Q: I saw a short film at Raindance Film Festival about surfers who catch waves in the freezing cold waters of northern England. Where is the strangest place you have surfed?
A: The strangest waves I’ve surfed are the Kelly wave pools.
Q: If you could choose three people to go surfing with (past or present), who would they be and why?
A: It would have to be with the people I love – my family.
Q: What are your hopes and ambitions for the future?
A: To keep doing what makes me feel alive.